The Recipes Project is looking for new editors to grow our readership and expand the range of scholarship we feature on the blog. Are you a savvy Tweeter who loves the back-and-forth exchange of social media? Are you a regular reader with ideas about what you’d like to see us feature on the blog? Do you love thinking about recipes in all their myriad forms? Then you might make a great social media or acquisitions editor, and we would love to hear from you!
Editorial duties include:
Social Media Editors
Amplifying, sharing, and promoting writing on recipes, especially by underrepresented groups
Running our social media platforms (Instagram, Facebook, Twitter)
Regular liaising with co-editors about site development, content, and promotion
Engaging with underrepresented groups and areas of study related to recipes, especially among underrepresented groups and non-Western societies
Connecting with and inviting potential contributors
Organizing, editing, and uploading posts in rotation with other co-editors
Regular liaising with co-editors about site development, content, and promotion
The Recipes Project is an interdisciplinary, volunteer organization. This work is the unpaid product of a community of passionate scholars of recipes.
We welcome candidates from all backgrounds, including those engaged with the culinary arts, creative food writing, and academic research. We welcome scholars from a variety of disciplines: anthropology, comparative literature, classics, history, linguistics, literary criticism, sociology, and more. Graduate students are valued members of our community. We particularly invite submissions from those from underrepresented groups and non-Western societies.
The Recipes Project has an international reach that explores recipes of all kinds: medical, culinary, scientific, magical. Our posts cover a range of topics relating to historic cookbooks, instructions, ingredients, guidelines, and methods of cultivation and production across time and place. We value new writers and early career researchers, giving them a platform for new writing and supporting and amplifying their work. We have a broad audience—in 2021, we averaged 18,000 unique site visitors per month, and we have over 11.5K Twitter followers. We look forward to expanding further, with your help!
To apply, please include a CV and one-page pitch describing what you wish to bring to the team. Acquisitions Editors: include two ideas for a month-long series and how you might expand our reach to new audiences. Social Media Editors: include two ideas for a week-long social media campaign that reaches distinct and diverse groups. Have other ideas? Send them our way!
Please submit applications via email to firstname.lastname@example.org. First review will begin on Feb. 1, 2022 and will continue until positions are filled.
In my first post as an editor for the Recipes Project, I talked to Allen Grieco about his roles as editor of Food & History (published by Brepols) and series editor of a new book series on Food Culture, Food History before 1900 published by Amsterdam University Press. Both publications have recently celebrated some exciting milestones: Alban Gautier and Rachel Rich are the new editors of Food & History and the first book in AUP’s Food Culture, Food History series will be published in February 2022. So, today we revisit this chat with sound advice for publishing recipes-related research. -Sarah Kernan
Welcome to the first Publisher Chat as part of our new series, Around the Table, in which I will occasionally be talking to editors and publishers of journals and book series dealing with topics related to historic recipes. Today I am chatting with Allen Grieco, editor-in-chief of the journal Food & History (published by Brepols) and series editor of a new book series on Food Culture, Food History (13th to 19th centuries) published by Amsterdam University Press.
You serve both as
editor-in-chief of the journal Food & History and series editor of a
new book series on Food Culture, Food History (13th to 19th
centuries). Could you describe the types of research and writing being
published in this journal and series?
Anybody working in this field knows to what extent the
subject matter we deal with needs to be approached in a resolutely
interdisciplinary way. While both the journal and the book series have at their
core an historian’s approach to the subject, as is highlighted by the presence
of the word “history” in both titles, it is readily apparent that the life
blood of the discipline in the last three or four decades has seen a high
degree of methodologically innovative work. The breakdown of barriers that used
to separate disciplinary fields, a process that characterized the development
of cultural history in general, has been particularly pronounced in food
history. Our field has also witnessed the emergence of a pointed interest in
previously neglected sources that have since shown their hidden
potential. One of the many examples of this is the “discovery” of
cookbooks a type of document that was considered nothing more than a curiosity
and has now produced nothing less than a stream of publications. Much the same
might be said of the imaginative use iconographic sources are put to by both
historians and art historians or, for that matter, the serial use of literary
texts used by historians and literary historians to flesh out the
cultural context of food consumption.
Both the book series and the journal publish the work of
scholars working in this direction even though we are also open to more
traditional approaches such as work exploring the economic history of food,
philological work on important texts, etc. The differences, apart from the
length of the texts, are that the book series ranges from the thirteenth
century to the early nineteenth while the journal has a much larger chronological
range from prehistory to the present.
What is your role as
journal editor versus series editor?
In many ways they are very similar. As an editor (actually a co-editor in chief along with my colleague Peter Scholliers) working in close collaboration with two first class production editors (Lucinda Byatt and Olivier de Maret) of a journal that has reached sixteen years of age, the task is to ensure the quality of the articles and dossiers but also that what we publish fits the very open editorial line we have followed from the very beginning. Since this is the journal published by the IEHCA (Institut Européen d’Histoire et Culture de l’Alimentation) it needs to reflect the varied membership of this institution both in terms of chronological focus and the fields of research that cohabit under that label.
The yearly meetings held in Paris bring together the
editorial board, composed by a varied, highly international group of
specialists, that reflect not only what food history looks like at present but also
the range of topics published by the journal. Choosing the members of the board
is one of the tasks that Peter Scholliers and I undertake after consultation
with the sitting members.
As a series editor (but that has only just begun) I have
more freedom to choose though here too there is a small board that I can turn
to both for suggesting interesting manuscripts and for expert opinions. They
then go to Amsterdam University Press where, ultimately, the publisher approves
the recommendations Erika Gaffney and I have passed on to them.
Could you tell us how
to go about getting published in Food & History and Food Culture
and Food History? What is the process? Are scholars of all career stages
welcomed to try publishing?
For Food & History all you have to do is to send your article to Lucinda Byatt and Olivier de Maret. If you want to propose a more ambitious dossier, usually no less than four articles by different authors with an introduction, then you should send a one page proposal and a table of contents that will be evaluated before we come to some kind of decision.
As for the book series the procedure is to begin by getting
in touch with me and/or with the
commissioning editor Erika
Gaffney. Send us an informal proposal on the basis of which we will send
you a more complete Publication Proposal Form to get the kind of information
that is required by AUP to move forward with your project. It is important to
say that scholars at all career stages are published and that the only proviso
is that it be new, quality work. I should add that publications are exclusively
in English and that the series also plans to publish essay collections.
Do you have any
general advice for scholars trying to publish historical research on food
The advice here might sound a little obvious but food history
is a relatively new field, you might even say a fashionable one. While that
means more opportunities to publish (the amount of publishers who have entered
their hat in the arena over the past ten years is quite remarkable) this has
also a corollary which is that standards are not always maintained. The journal
and the book series I am involved with are both resolutely bent on quality
scholarship but that does not mean dry and long winded, quite to the contrary.
Good scholarship and a lively approach to a subject are of course possible,
even though they come at some cost. While Food & History has more
latitude for contributions that are aimed at a very small group of specialists,
the book series has to be aimed at a broader readership. So, for example, a
book should strive to go beyond our specialized field and speak to historians
in general. This is very important since many a main stream historian still
thinks that food history has nothing to do with them. Our field needs to break
out of what threatens to be a ghetto but to do this I am looking for new ideas
and rigorous scholarship communicated in an accessible, lively manner.
Thanks, Allen, for
chatting with me! If
you’d like to feature an editor or publisher on the Around the Table Publisher
Chat, please email Sarah Kernan.
As part of Before “Farm to Table”: Early Modern Foodways and Cultures project, a $1.5 million Mellon initiative in collaborative research at the Folger Institute of the Folger Shakespeare Library, I’ll be working on a new book, Leftovers: the Afterlives of Early Modern Food. In this book I aim to explore the instability of food in this period. This was of course literally true, as it was easy for early modern food to go bad. But early modern food was also intellectually and philosophically unstable. What food meant, what it tasted like, where it came from, how to put it to its best use, its moral and cultural symbolism: all of these were in constant flux. The book project will consider things like food preservation, food charity, artificial or faux food, the British colonisation of dishes, and the recycling and reuse of food containers, all of which will offer some insights into the ways that early modern women and men treated and thought about their food, and how these reflected the practical as well as the philosophical food insecurities of the past.
Today I’ll offer a glimpse into the project through one evocative example: faux or artificial foods, which enabled early modern people to reimagine what they ate. Much has been made over early modern food follies at feasts, and for good reason; some of these, whether they existed in the historical record or only in the imaginative one, were remarkable. My favourite of these is from Robert May’s Accomplish’t Cook, first printed in London in 1660.
May, a British chef who trained in France and served in elite British households, designed food entertainments for higher-status women and men. These edible entertainments worked to manipulate diners’ senses of reality and fantasy. One of May’s most well-known food performances instructed cooks to take a whole deer and roast it, cut a hole in it, and fill ‘his body… up with claret wine’. The hole was then to be stoppered with ‘course paste’ [thick dough] and the cook was to place ‘a broad arrow’ into the dough on the roasted deer’s side. During the dinner entertainment, May explained, ‘order it so that some of the Ladies may be perswaded to pluck the Arrow out of the Stag, then will the Claret wine follow as blood running out of a wound’.
This juxtaposition of what was real and unreal – an animal, which likely had been hunted with bows and arrows, was then butchered, cooked, and presented so that diners could imagine themselves back at the site of the kill, but in such a way that they could then immediately eat the (cooked) deer and drink its (wine) blood – would surely have offered early modern women and men a strange sense of slippage. Were they valued guests, enjoying an elaborate meal in elite society? Or were they vicious, impulsive, and animalistic? Given the opportunity to reimagine themselves, their meal, and their relationship to it as consumers, May assured his readers that they would evoke not horror or confusion, but senses of ‘admiration to the beholders’.
For home cooks, artificial foods could take on different forms of re-imagination. Many such acts of culinary creativity were undertaken out of necessity, lack of resources, or thrift. A recipe in an anonymous c. 1720 manuscript cookbook included instructions for how ‘to keep Mushrooms without Pickle for sauce’, which was really a guide to making mushrooms (common all over Britain) taste like truffles (typically imported). Readers were told to ‘take large Mushrooms peel them & take out all the inside, lay them in Water some hours then stew them in their own liquor…with a little Mace & Peper’. This process was to be repeated ’till they are quite dry’. As a result, the author claimed ‘they eat very well thus & look like Troufles’. A 1740 recipe book created by a Mrs. Knight explained how to make ‘artificial venison’ by beating ‘a rump of veal or a large shoulder of mutton…[with] a rolling pin’ before seasoning it ‘with peper & nutmeg’ and soaking it for ’24 hours in sheeps blood’. This supposedly produced the richness, gaminess, and flavour that early modern people associated with venison (a food intended only for the elite) but utilised ingredients that would have been available to most middling-sort people (veal, mutton, spices, and sheep’s blood).
Faux foods – whether they were constructed purely for fun, or purely out of need – changed the ways that early modern people perceived what they ate. It’s certainly possible to see these substitutions as efforts on the part of middling-sort people to mimic the wealthy, or to pretend to eat beyond their means. But we should not ignore the imaginative resonances produced by these fantasies. When an early modern person ate fake venison, false truffles, or even took in the spectacle of a roasted deer bleeding wine onto a table, did they know that it was not real? Were they merely enjoying the sensation of the forbidden or unavailable food, or were they truly fooled? What was old food, and what was new?
 Robert May, The Accomplisht Cook, or the Art and Mastery of Cookery… (London, 1660).
This year marks the 80th anniversary of the start of food rationing in Britain during the Second World War. On 8th of January 1940, the British government instituted a system of food controls, which was all-encompassing for the home front population. Items such as meat, cheese, tea and butter were put on the basic ration, while other foods such as tinned goods, rice and cereal could be purchased through a points system, whereby individuals received 16 and later 20 points per month to spend on these foods. Goods were assigned so many points by officials in the Ministry of Food, depending on availability of supplies, offering consumers a measure of flexibility in their diets beyond the basic ration. Ration amounts fluctuated throughout the war as supply levels rose and fell according to shipping losses from U-boat action, domestic agricultural outputs and the needs of the military.
The nature of the restrictions and their pervasiveness in society required everyone to use food resources wisely to feed the home front. But it was primarily to housewives that the nation and the government turned to make the ration programme a success. Through food rationing propaganda, officials called on married women to use their cookery skills to sustain their family’s consumption needs under the food controls. Such propaganda suggested that women, who could effectively provide nutritious meals to their loved ones by stretching limited consumables, were fulfilling the idealised domestic role in wartime. However, in reality, not all housewives took up domestic roles with gusto, nor did they act alone in the battle on the kitchen front. Other women within the home and in the community often assisted housewives in their task of providing meals in the domestic environment. As a result, women’s responses to the food situation were much more diverse in scope and complexity than the image of the ideal housewife would lead us to believe.
My paper, ‘Feeding the British Home Front: Women’s Interconnectivity in the Second World War’, presented at the conference, ‘Waste Not Want Not: Food and Thrift from Antiquity to the Present’, explored the links between sustainability and women’s roles in wartime Britain. Using oral interviews, my research demonstrated that through associations both within and in connection to the home, women utilised their interconnectivity with other women to successfully sustain the consumption needs of home front families in a time of conflict and food insecurity. My paper illuminated the multifaceted work of grandmothers and single women in conjunction with housewives to facilitate and maintain the food levels in the home during the Second World. Overall, this paper provided a more nuanced understanding of the intricate structure of women’s food interactions. It showed that the British food rationing programme relied not simply on housewives’ individual efforts, but it depended on the cookery interactions of a community of women, who creatively pooled their culinary knowledge and resources to successfully maintain the food security, health and nutrition of a nation at war.
 For a discussion of the points system and the foods included in it, see: Norman Longmate, How We Lived Then: A History of Everyday Life During the Second World War (London: Pimlico, 1971), pp. 141-142.
 Kelly A. Spring, ‘“Today We Have All Got to be Fighting Fit”: The Interconnectivity of Gender Roles in British Food Rationing Propaganda during the Second World War’, Gender & History, 32/1, March 2020, pp. 1-27 (early view online February).